Journal article
On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash
School of Engineering, Reynolds Building, University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, UK
Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes.
Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach.
Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation.
Language: | English |
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Year: | 2007 |
Pages: | 2115-2123 |
ISSN: | 18735258 and 00298018 |
Types: | Journal article |
DOI: | 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2007.05.006 |