Sediment transport under breaking waves

The sediment transport in the surf zone is modelled by combining a Navier-Stokes solver, a free surface model, a turbulence model, and a sediment transport model. The flow solver is based on the finite volume technique for non-orthogonal grids. The model is capable of simulating the turbulence generated at the surface where the wave breaks as well as the turbulence generated near the bed due to the wave-motion and the undertow.

In general, the levels of turbulent kinetic energy are found to be higher than experiments show. This results in an over prediction of the sediment transport. Nevertheless, some qualitative features have been modelled with success such as the onshore transport under plunging breakers and offshore transport under spilling breakers.